A shadowbox is not just a frame. It is a sealed world — a carefully composed scene that took hours to build, and that, with a little attention, will last for many years. Here is what you need to know to keep yours looking exactly as it did the day it arrived.
Where to Display It
The single most important thing you can do for your shadowbox is choose the right spot. Avoid direct sunlight entirely — UV light fades velvet, bleaches bone, and can cause preserved specimens to become brittle over time. A north-facing wall, a shaded alcove, or a spot away from windows is ideal.
Avoid placing your shadowbox near heat sources such as radiators, fireplaces, or heating vents. Fluctuating temperatures cause the wood to expand and contract, which can loosen joints and stress the glass. Equally, avoid very damp rooms — a bathroom or an unventilated basement is not a good home for preserved organic material.
A stable, cool, and dry environment is what you are aiming for. Most living rooms and bedrooms are perfectly suitable.

Hanging and Handling
Each shadowbox comes with a hanging mechanism on the back. Use a proper wall hook rated for the weight of the piece — if you are unsure, err on the side of a heavier-duty hook. The frame should sit flush against the wall and feel completely stable before you let go.
When moving or transporting your shadowbox, always hold it by the frame — never by the glass. Carry it upright rather than flat. If you need to pack it, wrap it in acid-free tissue or soft cloth and place it in a box with padding on all sides.
Cleaning the Glass
The glass will occasionally collect dust. To clean it, use a soft, dry microfibre cloth and wipe gently in one direction. Do not press hard. Do not use glass cleaner sprays directly on the frame — the liquid can seep into the edges and damage the wood, velvet lining or the specimens inside. If you need a slightly damp cloth, make sure it is barely damp and keep it well away from the frame edges.
Never open the frame to clean the inside. The interior is sealed for a reason — it protects the contents from humidity, dust, and handling. If something inside has shifted or you notice a problem, contact me directly rather than attempting to open it yourself.

Preserved Insects Inside
Insects preserved for display are stable and do not require any maintenance on your part. They will not deteriorate under normal conditions. What they do not tolerate is prolonged exposure to direct sunlight (which fades colour), very high humidity (which can cause mould), or physical impact (which can break antennae or wings).
If you notice any fine dust or debris inside the frame over time, this is normal — it is simply the natural settling of dried organic material. It does not indicate a problem.
Do not attempt to spray any kind of preservative, lacquer, or insecticide into or around the frame. The specimens are already treated and sealed. Additional chemicals can cause discolouration or damage.
If you suspect that insects have somehow found their way into the frame — which is very rare, but can occasionally happen during transit in warm conditions — the safest method is freezing. Place the entire sealed frame in a zip-lock bag (to prevent condensation from forming directly on the piece) and put it in a freezer for at least 72 hours. Remove it slowly, allowing it to return to room temperature gradually before opening the bag. This eliminates any unwanted visitors without the use of chemicals and without opening the frame.

Mummified Specimens Inside
Mummified animals are among the most stable preserved specimens you can own. They have been fully desiccated, which means there is no moisture left to cause decay. Under normal display conditions, they are essentially indefinitely stable.
The main risks are the same as for insects: direct sunlight, high humidity, and physical shock. Keep the frame sealed, keep it away from damp, and do not expose it to sudden temperature changes. That is genuinely all the care they need.

Bone and Skeletal Elements Inside
Bones and skulls used in my work are cleaned, degreased, and sealed before being incorporated into a piece. They are stable under normal conditions and do not require any special treatment.
Bone is sensitive to very low humidity over long periods — in extremely dry environments (such as centrally heated rooms in winter), it can occasionally develop hairline cracks over many years. This is a slow process and unlikely to be noticeable in most homes. If you live in a very dry climate, a small humidifier in the room is sufficient to prevent this.
Do not attempt to bleach, clean, or treat any bone elements visible through the glass. They have already been finished to the correct state.

The Frame and Velvet Lining
The wooden frame is hand-sanded, painted, and lacquered. It does not require any treatment. Do not apply wood polish, wax, or oil — the lacquer finish is complete and additional products will only dull or damage it.
The velvet lining inside the frame is not accessible for cleaning, which is why keeping the glass clean from the outside matters. Velvet is sensitive to crushing — another reason not to lay the frame flat for extended periods.
If the frame develops a small scratch over time, a matching touch-up paint pen in the appropriate colour (black, gold, or dark brown depending on your piece) can be used carefully on the outer surface only.
What to Avoid — A Quick Summary
- Direct sunlight or UV exposure
- Heat sources and radiators
- High humidity or damp rooms
- Sprays of any kind near the frame
- Opening the frame yourself
- Laying the frame flat for extended periods
- Holding the piece by the glass
- Applying any products to the wood or lacquer
A Note on Longevity
I build each shadowbox to last. The materials I use — hardwood, hand-cut glass, quality velvet, properly prepared specimens — are chosen for durability as much as for beauty. With reasonable care and a good spot on your wall, your piece should look exactly as it does today in ten, twenty, or thirty years' time.
If you ever have a question about your specific piece, or if something happens during transit or display, I am always happy to hear from you. Every piece that leaves my studio is something I care about — and I want it to be in good hands.