Preserved specimens are not fragile in the way people expect. Bone that has been properly cleaned and dried is remarkably stable. Dried botanicals, when kept away from moisture, last for years. Resin-sealed pieces are nearly indestructible. But every preserved specimen has specific conditions it prefers — and specific conditions that will damage it over time.
Here is what you need to know to keep your pieces in good condition for years, or decades.
The Enemies of Preserved Specimens
Most damage to preserved specimens comes from the same few sources:
- Humidity — moisture causes bone to warp and crack, encourages mold on dried botanicals, and can loosen adhesives used in assemblage work
- Direct sunlight — UV light bleaches bone, fades dried flowers and feathers, and degrades certain resins over time
- Dust accumulation — dust settles into crevices and, combined with humidity, can cause surface damage over time
- Physical impact — dried specimens are more brittle than fresh ones; a fall that wouldn't damage a ceramic piece may crack a bone or shatter a dried botanical
- Pests — dermestid beetles, fur beetles, and clothes moths can cause serious damage to specimens with fur, feathers, or soft tissue; insects pinned in frames are also vulnerable if the case is not properly sealed
Ideal Display Conditions
The best environment for preserved specimens is cool, dry, and away from direct light. A display case or glass dome offers protection from dust and accidental contact while still allowing the piece to be seen. Shadowboxes — sealed behind glass — are ideal for this reason: the specimen is protected on all sides.
Avoid placing specimens near windows, above radiators, in bathrooms, or in any space with significant humidity fluctuation. A stable environment is more important than a perfect one.
Cleaning and Dusting
For open specimens — bones, skulls, dried botanicals not behind glass — dust gently with a soft brush. A clean, dry watercolor brush or a soft makeup brush works well. Work slowly and don't apply pressure. The goal is to lift dust, not to scrub.
Do not use water, cleaning sprays, or damp cloths on bone or dried organic material. Do not use compressed air at close range — the force can dislodge small elements or damage delicate structures.
For pieces behind glass, clean the glass only. The specimen inside does not need to be touched.
Handling
Handle preserved specimens as little as possible, and when you do, support the full piece rather than holding it by a single element. Bone that has been dried and cleaned is stable but not flexible — stress applied to a single point can cause fractures that weren't there before.
If a piece has small attached elements — crystals, dried flowers, wax seals — be especially careful around those areas. They are often the most vulnerable points of an assemblage.
Mummified Mounts and Specimens with Fur
Mummified animals and mounts with fur require extra attention. The skin and fur are organic material that can attract pests — particularly fur beetles (Anthrenus spp.) and clothes moths — even years after preservation.
Keep these pieces in a sealed display case or shadowbox whenever possible. Inspect them periodically — every few months — for any signs of damage: small holes in the fur, fine powder or debris beneath the piece, or shed insect casings. These are early warning signs of pest activity.
If you suspect infestation, do not panic and do not use chemical pesticides directly on the specimen. Instead, place the piece in a sealed plastic bag and put it in the freezer at −18°C or below for at least 72 hours — ideally a full week. This kills all life stages of common textile pests without damaging the specimen. After freezing, allow the piece to return to room temperature slowly inside the sealed bag before opening, to prevent condensation forming on the fur or skin.
Bird Wings and Feathered Specimens
Feathers are among the most delicate preserved materials. They fade in UV light, absorb moisture, and are attractive to feather mites and clothes moths. Display feathered specimens away from direct light and in low-humidity conditions.
Dust feathers with extreme care — a very soft brush, moving in the direction of the feather's natural grain. Never brush against the barbs. If a feather becomes misaligned, it can sometimes be gently repositioned with a fine brush and a small amount of steam held at a distance — but this should be done cautiously and only when necessary.
As with fur mounts, freezing is the safest treatment if pest activity is suspected. The same protocol applies: sealed bag, −18°C or below, minimum 72 hours, slow return to room temperature.
Insects in Glass Frames
Properly sealed entomology frames are largely self-contained — the glass and backing protect the specimens from dust, humidity, and most pests. The main risks are UV fading (which affects color over time, particularly in iridescent beetles and butterflies) and physical damage if the frame is dropped or the seal is compromised.
Display insect frames away from direct sunlight. If you notice the colors fading significantly, consider moving the piece to a darker location or using UV-filtering glass if the frame is ever reglazed.
If the seal on an insect frame is broken — the backing has come loose, or there is a gap in the frame — address it promptly. An unsealed frame can allow pests in, and a single dermestid beetle inside a frame can destroy the specimens within it. If you're unsure whether a frame is properly sealed, contact me and I can advise.
If you acquire a new insect frame from an unknown source and want to be cautious, the freezing method works here too: sealed bag, −18°C, one week. Pinned insects survive freezing without damage.
If Something Breaks
Small breaks in bone or dried material can often be repaired with a clear-drying archival adhesive. Apply sparingly, hold the pieces together until the adhesive sets, and allow to cure fully before handling again. Avoid super glue — it dries brittle and can cause further damage if the piece is stressed again.
For significant damage to a piece you purchased, contact me directly. I keep records of the materials used in each piece and can advise on the best repair approach, or in some cases, carry out the repair myself.
Long-Term Storage
If you need to store a specimen rather than display it, wrap it loosely in acid-free tissue paper and place it in a box with some airflow — not an airtight container, which can trap moisture. Store in a cool, dry place away from light. Check periodically for any signs of moisture or pest activity.
Preserved specimens kept in good conditions don't degrade. They age. There is a difference. A piece cared for properly will look in twenty years much as it does today — perhaps with a little more patina, a little more history. That is not damage. That is time.
If you're looking for a piece built to last, Mantis Twin Frames — two mantises in matching antique frames, sealed behind glass — are ready to ship.